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Chronometer grade Super Prestex pocket watch

Strictly speaking, this watch isn’t an antique (yet) as it likely dates from the 1940s. However, it caught my attention because I have family connections to Bolton, near Manchester in the United Kingdom. I stumbled across this watch during my daily search for collectible antique watches and I was surprised to find that Bolton had a long history with watchmaking.

Prestex Chronometer

The watch has a chronometer-grade stem-winding movement with 21 jewels. The movement states that it has been adjusted to temperature and 5 positions. Swan neck regulator, screw set jewels and Breguet hairspring. The movement is signed Super Prestex. The movement is protected by an inner hinged cover or cuvette which has an ornate long service inscription from St Helens Smelting Company, 1949.

The watch measures 50mm in diameter excluding the winding stem and the loop. The case is gold plated and was made by the Birmingham based Dennison Watch Case Company, a prolific manufacturer of cases for various watch makers. Overall, the case is in good condition with just a slight indentation to the back.

The winding crown pushes in to open the front cover. Inside, the acrylic lens is in lovely condition. The dial is signed Prestons Ltd. It is in excellent condition with original hands, a subsidiary seconds dial and an outer minute track.

Prestex Chronometer movement.
Prestex Chronometer movement. © The Vintage Wrist Watch Company.

Prestons of Bolton

Prestons of Bolton, a jewellery and diamond specialist, was founded in 1869 by goldsmith James Preston. It later passed to James’ niece, Gertrude Duckworth. The store was unique, trading on four floors and featuring a customer lift, a novelty at the time. Prestons produced its own watches under the Prestex brand and was called the ‘Diamond Centre of the North’.

In the 1920s Prestons were making its own pocket watches under the Prestex name. According to Mikrolisk the name Prestex name was registered in Switzerland in 1927 by Prestons SA (the Swiss arm of Prestons Ltd). Over the next few decades, Prestex produced a variety of timepieces including chronographs, pocket watches and some stunning dress watches.

In the early 20th century, under Gertrude’s grandson Gordon, it became the country’s top seller of Omega watches. Omega inspired the building’s 1960s design, with an arcade entrance shaped like the Omega symbol. Prestons frequently appeared on television, with national adverts showcasing its glamorous interior and famous slogan: ‘It’s always worth a journey to the Diamond Centre of the North’.

By 2016, the Bolton store faced declining footfall, like many retail businesses, and eventually closed along with four other locations. Prestons now operate branches in Wilmslow, Guildford, Norwich, and Leeds, alongside the Prestons Diamonds website. In recent years, the Prestex brand has been revived and now operates under the name, Duckworth Prestex.

Prestex Chronometer.
Prestex Chronometer. © The Vintage Wrist Watch Company.

Chronometer

A chronometer is a highly precise timekeeping instrument, specifically designed to measure time accurately under various environmental conditions. The term “chronometer” is generally attributed to John Arnold whose technical advances in the mid-18th century enabled the production of marine chronometers for use on board ships. These advances were later adopted by John Harrison, an English clockmaker, who created the first successful marine chronometers in the mid-18th century, revolutionising navigation.

Modern chronometers are expected to undergo testing by COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres). COSC is the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute, an organisation responsible for certifying the precision and accuracy of Swiss-made watches as chronometers. It was established in 1973 by merging several existing Swiss testing offices to create a unified standard for certifying high-precision timepieces.

Summary

As mentioned above, my interest in this pocket watch was purely due to my family history in Bolton, where the Prestex brand was founded. The watch had sold when before I came across it. However, it is probably not something I would have purchased. It is not an antique and the inscription does detract from the originality. However, it is a nice watch and I have no doubt that someone is pleased to have it in their collection.

Related content

Chronometer at Britannica.

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