If you are looking to buy a “gold” antique pocket watch, it always pays to be sure of what you are buying. “Gold” watch cases come in several varieties, not all of which are as valuable as solid gold. In this post, we explain how you can tell if an antique pocket watch is gold or gold-plated.
Figuring out whether a pocket watch case is solid gold, gold-plated, or brass takes a sharp eye and some basic knowledge. Solid gold watches hold significant value and are built to last, while gold-plated ones offer the look of gold at a lower cost. Brass, on the other hand, is a common alternative that mimics gold’s appearance. However, it lacks the prestige of gold and was generally used on low-end pocket watches. Knowing what you’re dealing with can help you make an informed decision, particularly if you want to ensure your antique pocket watch is solid gold.
Understanding pocket watch materials
The material of a pocket watch affects both its value and durability. Pocket watch cases can be made from a variety of materials, including precious metals. Solid gold watches are marked with a carat stamp (such as 9k, 14K, or 18K) to indicate purity. They are highly prized for their rich colour and resistance to tarnishing.
Gold-plated watches, however, have only a thin layer of gold over a base metal, usually brass. While they look like gold at first, the plating can wear away over time, revealing the metal beneath. Brass itself is an affordable alternative, often found in lower-cost watches. Unlike gold, brass can tarnish, developing a dull patina over time.
Visual clues to spot solid gold
If a pocket watch is solid gold, it will have a deep, warm hue that doesn’t fade. It should also have a hallmark, usually stamped inside the case, indicating its gold content. Solid gold watches tend to feel heavier than their plated or brass counterparts, adding to their premium feel.
Gold-plated watches may look similar at first, but wear and tear can reveal another metal underneath. Check high-contact areas like the edges, clasp, and hinges, where plating wears off fastest. If you notice a different colour beneath the surface, it’s likely to be gold-plated rather than solid gold.
Filled gold
Filled gold watches have a base metal core, such as brass or nickel, with a thick, mechanically bonded outer layer of solid gold. To qualify as “filled gold,” at least 5% of the total weight must be gold. For example, a watch case with 90% nickel and 10% 14ct gold would be considered 14ct filled gold. Silver-gilt (vermeil) is a variation, using sterling silver as the base metal. Rolled gold is similar but contains less than 5% gold, making it thinner and less durable than filled gold.
Gold plating
Gold plating, on the other hand, involves depositing a very thin gold layer onto another metal through chemical or electrochemical plating. This layer is only a few microns thick—heavy gold plating measures about 2.5 microns (0.0025mm), whereas standard office paper is around 170 microns thick. Compared to filled gold, which has a layer at least 100 times thicker, gold plating wears off much faster. A specific type of gold plating, Galonné, applies a gold wash over silver and was particularly popular in early 20th-century Europe. While gold plating offers an affordable gold finish, filled or rolled gold provides a more durable alternative for watch cases.
How to identify gold plating
A few simple tests can confirm whether a watch is gold-plated:
- Wear patterns – If the gold plating is wearing off at the edges, exposing a duller metal underneath, the watch is plated.
- Magnet test – Gold isn’t magnetic, so if a magnet sticks to the watch, the base metal is likely iron, nickel or an alloy such as steel.
- Surface inspection – Under a jeweller’s loupe, plated watches may show signs of uneven coating or small imperfections.
How to tell brass from gold
Brass and gold may look similar, but they behave differently over time. Gold keeps its shine, while brass tarnishes and darkens. Holding the watch under natural light can help reveal these differences, gold reflects a warm, consistent glow, whereas brass may appear duller.
For a more precise test, an acid solution designed for metal testing can be applied to a hidden part of the watch. Gold remains unchanged, while brass reacts, often turning green due to its copper content. This is not recommended for beginners, chemicals are dangerous and could potentially damage the watch case in the wrong concentration.
Checking hallmarks for authenticity
Hallmarks are one of the best ways to confirm a watch’s material. These small stamps, usually inside the case, indicate the gold’s purity and origin. Look for numbers like 9k, 14K, or 18K, these signify solid gold. The watch is likely gold-plated or made from another metal if no hallmark is present.
Genuine hallmarks are crisp and well-defined. If a stamp looks blurry or uneven, it could be fake. Checking historical hallmark databases can also help verify a watch’s authenticity. Both Swiss and British gold cases will include hallmarks.
Weight differences between gold and brass
Gold is much denser than brass, so a solid gold watch will feel noticeably heavier than a brass one of the same size. Gold-plated and brass watches, being lighter, often lack the substantial feel of gold. Holding the watch in your hand and comparing it to a known gold piece can provide an instant clue.
The magnet test
This quick test can help determine a watch’s material. Gold is non-magnetic, whereas brass and other alloys may react to a magnet. If the watch sticks to a magnet, it’s likely not solid gold. However, this test isn’t foolproof, some gold-plated items may have non-magnetic base metals.
Scratch testing for material identification
Scratching a watch may seem extreme, but if done carefully in a hidden area, it can reveal the true metal underneath. Solid gold will show the same colour throughout, while gold-plated pieces will expose a different metal beneath the surface. This method should only be used as a last resort to avoid damaging the watch. You are probably better off…
Seeking a professional appraisal
If you’re unsure, the best way to confirm a pocket watch’s material is to have it professionally appraised. An expert can examine hallmarks, test the metal, and assess the watch’s craftsmanship to determine its authenticity. Professional appraisals are particularly useful for valuable or antique timepieces.
Related content
Watch cases and crowns at Vintage Watch Straps.