Watches are more than just tools for telling time; they’re windows into craftsmanship, history, and style. When it comes to antique pocket watches and wristwatches, every part has a role in making these timepieces both functional and beautiful. One of the key features you’ll find is the watch bezel. In this post, we will explain what a watch bezel is and why it is important for a functioning watch.
Bezel basics
The bezel is the metal ring that secures the watch crystal (the transparent cover) over the dial. On antique pocket watches, it’s nearly always circular, but wristwatches can mix things up with various shapes and designs. Bezels are a seamless blend of style and practicality. They not only hold the crystal in place but also add character to the watch’s overall look.
Different watch styles often have different bezel designs. For instance:
- Open-face pocket watches usually feature screw-on or hinged bezels.
- Hunter-case watches, on the other hand, come with snap-on bezels and an additional protective metal lid that covers the dial and crystal.
The bezel might seem like just a functional part, however, it’s a key player in the watch’s design.
Different styles of bezels
The bezel’s style is tied to the overall case design. Open-face pocket watches have their bezels on full display, easily recognisable as the ring surrounding the crystal. Meanwhile, hunter-case watches add an extra layer of protection. These watches feature a hinged metal lid that flips open to reveal the bezel, crystal, and dial. No matter the style, the bezel provides an essential function, it keeps the crystal in place and protects the delicate dial and hands underneath. Without a bezel, the crystal would be exposed to damage or might not sit properly, leaving the watch’s inner workings vulnerable.
What happens when the bezel goes missing
Losing a bezel can be a real problem, and it’s most common with hunter-case watches. Some people mistakenly think that because these watches have a metal lid, they don’t need a crystal underneath. But every hunter-case watch should have both a crystal and a bezel to hold it in place.
If you open the metal lid and don’t see a crystal, there’s a good chance the bezel is missing. Here’s how to spot the issue:
- Without a bezel, the dial will look bare, and the edges around the dial will appear exposed.
- When a bezel is in place, it forms a neat frame around the crystal and dial, holding everything securely.
Replacing a missing bezel isn’t easy, but it’s worth doing if you want to restore the watch to its former glory.
Why bezels are case parts, not movement parts
One of the quirks of antique pocket watches is that the movement (the mechanism that powers the watch) and the case were often made by different companies. This means the bezel isn’t linked to the movement in any way. Even if you know the serial number of the movement, it won’t help you identify the bezel size or type.
The case and its bezel are specific to the company that made the case, so finding a replacement can be tricky. A single movement could have been housed in dozens of different case designs from various manufacturers. That’s why bezels are considered case parts, not movement parts.
Options for replacing a missing bezel
If an antique pocket watch is missing its bezel, there are a few potential paths forward, but none of them are particularly easy or cheap. Here’s what you can consider:
- Custom fabrication
A skilled goldsmith or watchmaker might be able to create a new bezel to fit your case. This is often the best option for valuable watches, especially gold ones. However, it can be expensive. - Finding a replacement case
You might be able to replace the entire case with an old-stock one of the same size. While this could solve the problem, it’s not ideal if you want to preserve the original look and feel of the watch. - Locate an original bezel
Scouring antique shops, online auctions, or specialised dealers might help you find a bezel from a similar case. This can take time and effort but is sometimes the most authentic route.
Unfortunately, without a properly fitting bezel, you won’t be able to install a new crystal. Without a crystal, the hands and dial remain unprotected, making the watch vulnerable to damage.
The bezel’s role in restoration
Restoring an antique watch is often about more than just functionality; it’s about preserving memories and craftsmanship. If you’re restoring a family heirloom, taking the time to replace a missing bezel is a worthwhile effort. It’s the finishing touch that protects the watch while keeping its history intact.
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Watch components at T. H. Baker.