Identifying the maker of a British pocket watch from the 19th or early 20th century can be a challenging and sometimes frustrating task. The vast majority of these watches do not carry the name of the actual watchmaker. Instead, they typically feature the name of the retailer who ordered the watch and sold it in their shop. This name was often engraved on the movement and occasionally enamelled onto the dial as well. There are exceptions, of course, but they are rare. If the name on the watch is not linked to a well-known watchmaker, it is almost certainly that of the retailer. In this post, we ask, and try to answer, the question: Who made my British pocket watch?
The watchmaking trade
In the 19th century, the watchmaking trade was divided into two main categories. The first was the movement maker, who created the basic, rough movements. The second was the watchmaker, who took these rough movements and finished them into complete watches by adding components like the hands, dial, and case. However, the names of these movement makers or watchmakers rarely appeared on the final product.
Most often, it was the retailer’s name that appeared on the watch movement. If the engraving was not done during the initial manufacturing process, the watch movement could be sent out with a blank plate. This allowed the retailer to add their own name, or even the customer’s name, later. It is extremely uncommon to find the name of the actual manufacturer who made the watch.
British methods
Why is this? It all comes down to the way British watches were produced. The process was more of a team effort than the work of a single, identifiable maker. Watches were generally crafted using traditional methods, hand tools, and simple machines. Different parts were often produced by specialists working in their own homes or small workshops. By the 19th century, watches typically began life as rough movements. These consisted of the frame, the main plates, and other components like the spring barrel, fusee, and train wheels. These rough movements were primarily made in Prescot, Lancashire, by several specialised companies. Later, in the late 19th century, companies in Coventry joined the production of rough movements.
Once the rough movements were ready, they were sent to traditional watchmaking centres such as London, Coventry, and Birmingham. Skilled craftsmen would then finish the watch by adding the necessary parts and assembling it into a working timepiece. In many cases, this finishing work was done by independent workers, who would receive the part-finished watches and complete them in their own workshops. The person responsible for organising this process often considered themselves the “manufacturer,” even if they did not make the individual parts themselves.
Retailers as “watchmakers”
So, what does this mean for identifying the maker of an antique British pocket watch? It means that if the name on the watch isn’t one of the more well-known British watchmakers, it is most likely the name of the retailer who ordered the watch. In the 19th century, retailers were trusted figures in their local communities. Their names carried more weight than that of the individual craftsman who made the watch. Even though some of the better-known London makers did eventually gain enough of a reputation to have their names engraved on the movement or dial, many smaller watchmakers did not. Retailers, in fact, often preferred to have their own name engraved, as it added to the watch’s value and prestige.
If your English pocket watch bears a name that isn’t one of the famous makers, then it was probably made for a retailer or a customer. Occasionally, it might be possible to uncover the identity of the movement maker by examining the movement itself. Look for initials or other identifying marks on the bottom or pillar plate, the plate underneath the dial. If you get your watch serviced, ask your watchmaker to take a photograph of these areas, as they may reveal clues to the watch’s origins. If there is no name on the dial or engraved on the movement, then it’s likely that the watch was made by a smaller, lesser-known maker, whose name was not considered worth engraving, or the cost of engraving it was deemed unnecessary by the retailer.
What are these strange marks inside the watch case? Can they help?
The watch case, a key part of any pocket watch, often bears strange marks that may seem like a mystery. These marks are typically British hallmarks, which indicate that the case is made of precious metals such as silver or gold. Hallmarks can tell you where the case was assayed, when it was assayed, and the sponsor involved in the assay process. The sponsor’s mark is usually a set of initials that can be traced back to a specific assay office.
However, these marks do not necessarily reveal anything about the watchmaker or the manufacturer. The sponsor was simply an agent who was part of the assay process, not the person who made the case. In some cases, the name on the case may help identify the manufacturer, especially if the company was large enough to have its own case-making department, such as Rotherhams of Coventry. But more often than not, these marks belong to an independent case maker who was working on behalf of various clients, not a single, identifiable watchmaker.
Unfortunately, these strange marks on the watch case are not particularly helpful when it comes to identifying the maker of your pocket watch.
Let’s confuse things a little more… and introduce the Swiss!
To add another layer of complexity, it’s worth considering the role of Swiss watches in the British market during the 19th century. The “Swiss Made” label is now synonymous with luxury and precision, but its origins are more complex. In the 16th century, French Huguenot refugees brought their watchmaking skills to Switzerland, where they laid the foundations for a thriving industry. Over the years, Swiss watchmaking grew and evolved, becoming internationally renowned for its quality.
By the early 18th century, Swiss watchmakers introduced the établissage system, where different craftsmen specialised in making specific components of a watch. This innovation allowed Swiss watchmakers to produce more watches of a higher quality, helping to establish their reputation. By the mid-19th century, Swiss manufacturers began producing ébauches, blank movements, at a rapid pace. These movements were then finished by independent artisans. This system allowed Switzerland to surpass its competitors in both volume and precision.
Swiss Made
British watchmakers, however, grew concerned about the influx of Swiss-made watches flooding the market, many of which were mislabelled as British-made. The British Merchandise Marks Act of 1887 was introduced to ensure that the origin of watches was clearly marked. However, rather than writing out “Made in Switzerland,” the simpler label “Swiss Made” was adopted. This label soon became a hallmark of quality.
Today, the “Swiss Made” label is legally protected under the Swiss Federal Act on the Protection of Trade Marks. It was originally enacted in 1897 and revised in 1938 and 2002. The act ensures that only watches meeting strict production criteria may carry the mark. This legal framework prevents mislabelling and counterfeit products, helping to maintain the global reputation of Swiss watches.
By the early 20th century, Swiss watchmakers focused on high-end, precision timepieces. As a result, the Swiss watchmaking industry enjoyed a period of growth. This was particularly the case during World War I when Switzerland’s neutrality allowed it to continue operating while other countries’ watch industries were disrupted.
Swiss watches in Britain
Despite the rising reputation of Swiss watches during the 19th century, many Swiss watchmakers were still focused on producing watches in large quantities rather than making high-end pieces. As a result, they exported a vast number of unmarked watches to Britain. There, British retailers would brand them with their own names. After the British Merchandise Marks Act of 1887, Swiss watches were more clearly labelled with the “Swiss Made” mark. However, British retailers still often added their own names to the dials.
Many Swiss watches were assembled from mass-produced ébauches, which were essentially unfinished movements. These were purchased by independent assemblers who would then buy other components like dials, hands, and cases. These components were then used to complete the watches. These assemblers, or établisseurs, often kept the identity of the ébauche makers hidden. They either didn’t sign the movements at all or placed their trademarks in obscure locations, beneath the dial or under a bridge.
For much of the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Swiss manufacturers were happy to export their timepieces to Britain. During this time, the reputation of Swiss watches grew steadily. The “Swiss Made” label eventually became synonymous with quality, and many collectors still seek out Swiss watches from this era.
Summary
After all of this exploration, we’re left with the original question. “Who made my English pocket watch?” The answer is, unfortunately, not simple. During the 16th and 17th centuries, a watchmaker was someone who built a complete watch by hand. But by the 18th and 19th centuries, watchmakers were typically responsible for assembling watches from parts made by specialists. Retailers also began to use the term “watchmaker” to enhance their own image, muddying the waters further.
While some high-end Swiss and English watches do carry the name of the maker, the vast majority of antique pocket watches do not. Sometimes, the manufacturer can be identified through distinctive trademarks or the shape of the movement, often hidden beneath the dial. However, even if no obvious markings are found, it’s still possible to uncover much about the history of an antique watch by looking at the marks on its case and movement. This is particularly the case if it has a silver or gold case that was hallmarked in the UK. However, due to legal regulations, it wasn’t until after 1907 that this process became consistently applied.
Ultimately, if you’re trying to answer the question “Who made my British pocket watch?” It’s often a difficult task. Most of the time, the name on the dial will be that of the retailer, not the manufacturer. The only way to potentially identify the maker is by examining the movement, either by its shape or by hidden trademarks. I’m afraid this is as close as we get to answering the question.
Related content
The British Pocket Watch at Forbes.